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Sewer Line Replacement Cost in Illinois

Published November 1, 2026. Updated November 1, 2026.

Open trench in a front yard exposing an old clay sewer pipe beside a driveway

Sewer line replacement cost in Illinois ranges from about $1,390 to $5,320 for most homeowners, according to This Old House's March 2026 guide, and a long, deep or hard-to-reach line costs more. These are published estimates, not our quotes. The method you choose, the length of the run and the yard restoration drive the total.

What Does Sewer Line Replacement Cost in Illinois?

Most homeowners pay between $1,390 and $5,320, with an average of $3,320, according to This Old House (updated March 30, 2026). That is a national published estimate, not an Illinois-only survey and not our quote. We found no reliable statewide survey that is specific to Illinois, so treat any single figure with caution.

By method, the same guide lists these per-foot ranges, and a Chicago-area plumbing company's March 2026 guide adds its own:

MethodThis Old HouseChicago-area company's guide
Traditional excavation$50 to $200 per foot$50 to $200 per foot
Trenchless$60 to $250 per footn/a
Pipe burstingincluded in trenchless$60 to $200 per foot
Pipe lining (CIPP)included in trenchless$70 to $150 per foot

The second source is contractor marketing that compiles third-party figures, and some of its numbers do not reconcile, so use it as a cross-check rather than a source of truth.

Sewer line failing under the yard? Call (209) 563-1400

Open 7 days, 7:15 AM to 6:15 PM. Tell us what is happening and we will give you a clear, upfront quote.

Cracked and root-stained section of clay sewer pipe lifted from a trench
A cracked clay pipe section with root stains at the joint.

What Pushes the Price Up?

Length and depth lead the list. A longer run needs more pipe and more digging. Depth matters in Illinois because lines are buried deep enough to stay below the frost line, and the Chicago-area guide says each extra foot of depth adds $4 to $12 per linear foot.

These add to the total:

  • Camera inspection. This Old House lists $100 to $500, and it is the step that decides the scope.
  • Permits. The same guide gives $100 to $1,000 depending on location. Confirm with your city.
  • Obstacles. Concrete, driveways and patios raise labor and restoration costs. Root removal or obstacles can add $400 or more.
  • Restoration. Open trenches mean new sod, and sometimes a new driveway section. Trenchless work leaves a smaller footprint.
  • Home age. The Chicago-area guide says pre-1940 homes cost about 53 percent more. About 13 percent of Washington's housing units date to 1939 or earlier, according to Point2homes citing Census data.
  • Pipe material. This Old House lists PVC at $120 to $320 and cast iron at $800 to $3,000 for a 40-foot run. Either way the digging, not the pipe, drives most of the bill.

How Do the Per-Foot Rates Add Up on a Real Run?

Multiply your run by the rate and the headline range starts to look low. Here is This Old House's per-foot pricing applied to three example lengths, before any restoration:

House to mainOpen trench, $50 to $200Trenchless, $60 to $250
40 feet$2,000 to $8,000$2,400 to $10,000
60 feet$3,000 to $12,000$3,600 to $15,000
80 feet$4,000 to $16,000$4,800 to $20,000

The guide does not say what length its $1,390 to $5,320 range assumes, and the two sets of figures only overlap at the low end. So a full-length quote above the headline number is not automatically out of line. Ask how many feet it covers.

Restoration is the line most often missing from a first number. A 60-foot trench 3 feet wide opens 180 square feet of lawn. At This Old House's $4.50 to $12 per square foot for landscaping, that is $810 to $2,160. Its concrete repair figure, $1 to $20 per square foot, is wide enough that you should ask for a price on any driveway or walk by name.

Trenchless or Open Trench: What Is the Trade-Off?

Trenchless methods cost more per foot in some guides and less in others, so compare the whole job, not the rate. Both guides agree on the pattern: digging is cheaper in materials but adds restoration, while trenchless needs fewer or smaller holes.

  • Open trench works on almost any line, lets you see and replace everything, and suits a short, shallow run. It tears up lawn, and any driveway or patio in the way.
  • Pipe bursting pulls a new pipe through the old path. It needs access pits at each end and a line that is not collapsed.
  • Lining adds a new inner layer. It suits a line that is still round and aligned, and it will not fix a belly or a collapse.

A camera view decides which of these applies, which is why it comes first.

Do You Need Replacement or a Spot Repair?

Often a repair is enough. A camera shows where the damage sits, and a repair only touches that spot. Replacement makes sense when cracks, offsets or collapse run along much of the line, or when the pipe material has failed. Clay tile and cast iron are both common in older houses.

Our sewer line repair page walks through the options. A sewer camera inspection comes first, because it turns a guess into a scope. If roots are the only trouble, root removal is a different, smaller job.

Inspection monitor in a basement showing an offset joint inside a sewer pipe
A camera view of a sewer line with a displaced joint.

What We Look For Before Recommending a Replacement

We want proof on screen before we say a line needs to come out. That means a camera pass from the cleanout to the city main, with the footage in front of you.

We note how many sections are cracked or offset, whether the line holds water in a low spot, what material it is and how far it runs. We also ask where the line goes, because a pipe under a slab or driveway changes the method. In a neighborhood like Sunnyland, about four miles from our base, lots and mature trees vary a lot from one street to the next, so the answer is rarely the same for two houses.

The trade-off we talk through most is a spot repair against the whole line. A spot repair costs less today, but it leaves the rest of the old pipe in the ground, and a second failure means digging and paying again. Full replacement costs more once and gives you one pipe of one age. If the footage shows one bad joint in otherwise sound pipe, we would repair it. If most of the joints look the same, patching one is a short-term saving.

You get a clear, upfront quote after that, and you decide whether to repair, line or replace.

What Should a Replacement Quote Spell Out?

Check these before you sign, because each one can move the total:

  • Where the work stops: at the main, at the property line or at a section of the run.
  • Permit and connection fees, and who pulls and pays for them.
  • The JULIE locate. Illinois calls for it before digging, it is free, and JULIE lists at least two working days' notice. Its homeowner page says to allow three days. Ask who files it.
  • The cleanout. The Illinois Plumbing Code calls for one within 5 feet of the foundation, with 18 inches of clearance for rodding. If yours is missing, it belongs in the scope.
  • Restoration: backfill, topsoil, seed or sod, and any concrete.
  • Surprises: what happens to the price if the crew hits an old tile line, rock or standing water.

Who Pays for a Sewer Lateral in Illinois?

The owner pays, in many towns. Des Plaines is one example: its public works page says the lateral is owned and maintained by the property owner, including the part under the street, and that repair or replacement can cost thousands of dollars. Typical homeowners insurance does not cover these costs, though a sewer backup rider may.

A proposed Washington ordinance would amend the city code on private sewer laterals. Its status is not confirmed as law, so check it with the City of Washington. Ask public works where your responsibility ends, and whether any cost-share program applies. Des Plaines, for one, reimburses 30 percent of eligible costs, capped at $4,000 for repairs. We did not find such a program published for Washington. Sunnyland is a neighborhood name, not a town with its own government, so your water and sewer bill is the surest guide to whose rules apply.

Lawn and driveway intact beside a small access pit after trenchless sewer work
A small access pit in the lawn, with the driveway left whole.

Start With the Footage, Then the Number

No published range can see your line. The cost comes down to how many feet are bad, how deep they run and what sits on top. Call (209) 563-1400 to set up a camera pass, ask to see the footage, and let that decide between a repair, a liner and a new line.

Sources

Written by the Professional Sewer & Drain Services team

A plumbing and sewer company based in Washington, IL. About us

Common Questions

Who pays to replace the sewer line from my house to the street?
In many Illinois towns the property owner does, from the house to the main. Des Plaines, for one, says the lateral is owned and maintained by the owner, including the part under the street. Washington has a proposed ordinance on private laterals, so check its status with the city. Public works can tell you where your responsibility ends.
Does homeowners insurance pay for sewer line replacement?
Usually not for the pipe itself. Des Plaines says typical homeowners policies do not cover lateral costs, though a sewer backup rider may cover repair or replacement in some policies. Terms vary by insurer, so read your endorsement or ask your agent whether a lateral is covered and what the limit is.
How do I know if I need a full replacement or a spot repair?
A camera inspection answers it. If the footage shows one broken joint or a short bellied section, a spot repair or a liner may be enough. If cracks, offsets or collapse run along much of the line, replacement usually makes more sense. Get the video and a written scope before you decide.
How long does a new sewer line last?
Decades, when it is laid with a steady slope on good bedding. This Old House says modern sewer lines last 50 to 100 years by material, with PVC at 100 years or more and cast iron at 75 to 100 with proper care. Soil and roots shorten that, so ask which pipe the quote specifies and how its joints are sealed.

Plumbing problem right now? Call (209) 563-1400

Open 7 days, 7:15 AM to 6:15 PM. Tell us what is happening and we will give you a clear, upfront quote.

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